Standing at the lowest point in the United States 242 feet below sea level, I wasn't excited about the bike ride I had planned for the better part of a year.
I think deep down I knew it was going to be hell.
Day 1: Badwater Basin to Stove Pipe Wells
140 miles to the Mount Whitney Portal. It's pre-dawn and after a few hours of awful sleep, I stand on the boardwalk which delineates the lowest point in the United States. Bikes aren't allowed in Badwater Basin so I walk a few hundred yards to saddle my steed and pedal into the calm early morning.
The cycling in Death Valley is really incredible, however those pesky 120 degree summer temperatures really sour the concept. To accomplish going from 'Low2High' we had to time our bike riding in the desert with a large break from the mid day sun before resuming in the evening.
Today was a warm up ride with lots of chances to get off the bike and explore the stark moonscape scenery. Before I even felt hot I got to Furnance Creek a bit before 9am. This little hamlet has recorded the hottest temps in history but strangely seems lush and green with its palm trees and tight streets.
Killing a full day around Furnance Creek proves to be the crux of the day. I'm antsy to get miles but riding in the upper 90 degree heat is not an option.
After an eternity I resume my ride, the traffic is busier but the dying heat feels good on my back. An easy push of 20 miles to Stovepipe Wells where I will camp for the night. I laugh at the names of places in the park as the sunset glows across the 'Devils Cornfield'.
Day 2: Stovepipe Wells to Panamint Springs:
Day 3: Panamint Springs to Lone Pine:
Panamint Springs was a treat, with hot coffee, yummy food and good hospitality. Our spirits were renewed.
The ride is really fun today albeit difficult, the curving road affords terrific views and lots of good reason to take breaks. We are well past the halfway point of the ride and feeling solid. Randomly we stumble on the location of U2's Joshua Tree album cover. I queue up "I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For", it feels oddly fitting. After another day of grinding uphills, the McDonalds in Lone Pine is the highlight.
Day 4: Lone Pine to Portal
A lazy day in Lone Pine stuck anxiously anticipating the big climbs ahead. My mind feels ready to climb Whitney, but there is lots of gear to settle in the motel room, real life to catch up with and necessary rest for our bodies. Another slow day waiting for the inevitable it seems, though the last day of riding is by far our shortest (just another massive climb). For the first time in 4 days I feel a nip to the breeze, we have ascended so far but the most insane transformation is the scenery from desolate desert to the dramatic peaks of the Sierra range. Tired we tuck into our secret bivy near the Whitney trailhead.
Day 5: Hiking Whitney
Restless we hike into the dark, a strange light feeling without our bikes. I have climbed Whitney in a day before but that makes it no easier today. The hike is smooth, the slow elevation gain of the trail is a nice change to the punchy, grueling climbs on the road. We could have taken the shorter Mountaineer's Route to summit but a 20 mile and 6,000 foot day hike is a worthy end to this quest.
Standing on the wide summit of Whitney with dozens of other day hikers the sense of accomplishment is mixed. I want to be an asshole and tell everyone where we came from, but I preserve there opportunity to celebrate. Gazing out from the summit it's hard to comprehend where we came from and harder to understand the geologic process that creates such extremes.
The walk down will be rough, my knees hurt already and I'm ready for a real bed. I promised myself however I would bike down to Lone Pine, as the temptation to hitchhike nags at me.
On our own power we went from the lowest point in the continental United States to the highest.
Would I do it again? Absolutely not.
Low2High Stats:
140 miles biked~ 13,500 feet~ gained.
20 miles hiked~ 6,300 feet~ gained.
U2 Albums listened to: 1 Times replayed: 3